Some train rides are just transport. The Bernina Express is the trip itself.
In April 2023, my husband and I went to St. Moritz and took the Bernina Express over the Bernina Pass. Big windows, snowy mountains, pine forests, and the two of us sitting with a cup of tea watching it all go by. It’s still one of my favourite train rides ever.
In this post I share what we did in St. Moritz, what the Bernina Express is like, and tips if you’re planning this trip yourself.
Why St. Moritz?
St. Moritz is a famous mountain town in the Engadin valley in the east of Switzerland. It’s known for winter sports, luxury hotels and its frozen lake in winter. But you don’t need to be rich or a skier to enjoy it.
We went in late April. The town was quiet, the snow was still on the mountains, and the fields below were starting to turn green. It was the perfect in-between season: calm, beautiful, and less crowded.
What we did in St. Moritz
Walked around the town
We spent time just walking. Around the town and along the open fields with snowy peaks all around. Everywhere you look, there’s a mountain.
Lunch with a mountain view
One of my favourite memories is lunch in a cosy restaurant with huge windows. Soup, good food, yellow tulips on the table and snowy mountains outside. I sat there with my tea and thought, this is exactly why I travel.
Took photos everywhere
St. Moritz is very photogenic. Wooden buildings, old staircases, mountain backdrops. Every corner is a photo spot.
What is the Bernina Express?
The Bernina Express is a panoramic train run by the Rhaetian Railway (RhB). It connects Chur and St. Moritz in Switzerland with Tirano in Italy, crossing the Alps over the Bernina Pass.
The route is part of the Rhaetian Railway in the Albula and Bernina landscapes, a UNESCO World Heritage site. That tells you how special it is.
What makes it amazing:
- Panoramic windows. The windows curve up into the roof, so you see the peaks above you.
- Huge views. Glaciers, lakes, forests, viaducts and snowy passes.
- It feels slow in a good way. You’re not rushing. You’re just watching.
Our Bernina Express experience
We sat by the big window with tea and snacks and just watched. The train climbs up through pine forests, then the landscape opens and everything becomes white. Snow, ice and mountains all around.
Doing it together with my husband made it even better. It was one of those trips where you don’t need to plan anything. You sit, talk, watch the world outside and enjoy being together.
Tips for the Bernina Express
- Reserve your seat. The panoramic train needs a seat reservation in addition to a ticket. Book early, especially in summer.
- Check if your pass covers it. If you have a Swiss Travel Pass or similar, the ticket may be covered, but you usually still pay the reservation.
- Pick a good side. Ask when booking or check online which side has the best views for your direction.
- Go on a clear day if you can. Clouds can hide the peaks.
- Bring layers. Even in spring, it’s cold when you get off at the higher stops.
- Bring snacks and water. There is usually a trolley, but having your own is easy.
- Don’t overplan the day. The train ride is the main event. Enjoy it.
Always check current prices and timetables on the official RhB website, as they change by season.
How to get to St. Moritz
St. Moritz is easy to reach by train from Zurich, usually with a change in Chur. The ride from Chur to St. Moritz on the Albula line is already beautiful, with tunnels, viaducts and mountain views. Plan your connections on the SBB website.
Is St. Moritz worth it if you don’t ski?
Yes. We didn’t go for skiing at all. We went for the views, the calm, the food and the train. If you love mountains and slow travel, St. Moritz and the Bernina Express are a great combination.
Spring in St. Moritz: good or not?
Late April worked really well for us. Fewer tourists and still snow on the mountains. Just know that some cable cars and hotels close between seasons, so check before you go.
If you like trips with a mix of calm and beauty, you might also enjoy my posts about Lake Como and Zermatt.
Where to go after the Bernina Express
The Bernina Express ends in Tirano, a small town just across the border in Italy. It’s a fun contrast: you leave snowy Swiss mountains and arrive in Italian streets a few hours later. Many people have an Italian lunch in Tirano and then take the train back.
Another popular option is to continue by bus towards Lake Como or Lugano. The Bernina Express bus runs between Tirano and Lugano in the warmer months, so you can turn this into a bigger trip through the Alps and the lakes. Check the RhB website for when it runs.
If you prefer something shorter, you can also ride only part of the route. Even a section over the Bernina Pass, from St. Moritz to the higher stops and back, gives you the best mountain views.
Whatever you choose, give yourself a full day for it. This is one of those trips you don’t want to rush.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Bernina Express worth it?
Yes, if you love scenery. It’s one of the most beautiful train rides in Europe, with glaciers, passes and viaducts along the way.
Do I need to book the Bernina Express in advance?
Yes, seat reservations are needed for the panoramic train. Book early in busy seasons.
When is the best time to visit St. Moritz?
Winter for snow and winter sports, summer for hiking, and spring or autumn for a calmer, cheaper trip. Check which places are open in between seasons.
How long is the Bernina Express ride?
The full route takes several hours. Check the current timetable on the RhB website for your exact start and end stations.
Would you take the Bernina Express? Tell me in the comments 👇
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